2024-2025 ZX6R Installation Instructions for:
Frame Sliders
Fork Sliders
Swingarm Spools
WARNING: The installation of all parts in these installation instructions must be performed by a qualified motorcycle mechanic who is using the correct tools and who understands the correct use of all tools required to complete the installation.
Frame Sliders
Tools you will need:
Ratchet- 3/8 or ½” drive
Extension
14mm socket
8mm hex driver
4mm hex key
5mm hex key
Small pointed screwdriver
Short Phillips screwdriver
Torque wrench
Install one side at a time- do not remove both engine bolts together.
This first section explains the removal of certain body pieces of the bike that will allow access to the engine mount bolt. The fairings are not completely removed, only enough to allow the fairing to be flexed outward and away from the engine mount bolt. However, this process will take several minutes to complete. The techniques used to disconnect various areas of the fairings are very specific and if you just start yanking on fairing and trim pieces, you will break important tabs that hold the pieces together, or break the piece altogether.
Frame Sliders
Fork Sliders
Swingarm Spools
WARNING: The installation of all parts in these installation instructions must be performed by a qualified motorcycle mechanic who is using the correct tools and who understands the correct use of all tools required to complete the installation.
Frame Sliders
Tools you will need:
Ratchet- 3/8 or ½” drive
Extension
14mm socket
8mm hex driver
4mm hex key
5mm hex key
Small pointed screwdriver
Short Phillips screwdriver
Torque wrench
Install one side at a time- do not remove both engine bolts together.
This first section explains the removal of certain body pieces of the bike that will allow access to the engine mount bolt. The fairings are not completely removed, only enough to allow the fairing to be flexed outward and away from the engine mount bolt. However, this process will take several minutes to complete. The techniques used to disconnect various areas of the fairings are very specific and if you just start yanking on fairing and trim pieces, you will break important tabs that hold the pieces together, or break the piece altogether.
1. Remove the seat.
2. Remove the trim piece in figure 1
2. Remove the trim piece in figure 1
3. Remove the long trim piece in figure 2. Two pins on the back side of the trim piece need to be pulled from their grommets, one at the very back area where the tail section meets the trim piece, and another mid way, below the tank. Photos 2, 3, and 4 show where the pins are located on the trim piece, and where force can be applied to release the pins.
After the pins are free, the entire piece needs to be forced backward to allow the piece to become disconnected at the front tip of it.
4. Remove the trim piece beneath the headlight assembly. Several push pins need to be removed first. Poke center of pin to release, then remove each pin. This trim piece is hard to remove without proper technique. Push up where the arrow is pointing, pull down on each pointed area at front of trim piece, then slide back. This piece will not slide back until the tabs at front of trim piece are released. See photos 5 and 6.
NOTICE: WHEN YOU REMOVE THE PUSH PINS, NOTE THE POSITION OF EACH PIN. THE TWO PINS AT THE BACK MIDDLE SECTION ARE DIFFERENT THAN THE OTHERS AND MUST GO BACK INTO THE SAME HOLE. THE OTHER PINS ARE TOO BIG FOR THE HOLES.
5. The trim piece in figure 7 needs to be removed also. Two Phillips head screws at the top edge of the piece need to be removed, then pull out at the bottom point, then push toward back of bike to release.
6. Two screws shown in figure 8 need to be removed next. The fairing also has a push pin (shown removed) at the connection for the left and right fairings shown in figure 9. The connection can be flexed inward to release the tab holding the fairings together.
The installation of the frame sliders can now be started.
7. Figure 10 shows the engine mount bolt to be removed to install the frame slider on the right side. For this photo, the fairing has been removed completely to clearly show the bolt.
The bolt can be removed by flexing the fairing outward and using a 14mm socket/ratchet to remove.
Important: The castle style nut is just an adjuster and DOES NOT GET LOOSENED. The engine mount bolt runs through the threaded portion of the adjuster (figure 11). If you assume you need a special tool to complete this step, you're doing it wrong.
7. Figure 10 shows the engine mount bolt to be removed to install the frame slider on the right side. For this photo, the fairing has been removed completely to clearly show the bolt.
The bolt can be removed by flexing the fairing outward and using a 14mm socket/ratchet to remove.
Important: The castle style nut is just an adjuster and DOES NOT GET LOOSENED. The engine mount bolt runs through the threaded portion of the adjuster (figure 11). If you assume you need a special tool to complete this step, you're doing it wrong.
8. Remove the plastic piece in figure 12. This piece can be turned like a screw to remove. This piece cannot be put back into place for proper frame slider bracket installation.
9. Remove the pre-installed frame slider from the bracket and install the bracket using our supplied hex head bolt. Position the bracket as seen in figure 13 and tighten to the factory torque specification.
10. The fairing can be attached loosely before moving to the left side.
Most of the trim pieces that were removed on the right side will also be removed on the left side, with the exception of the trim piece in step 5 (figure 7). The fairing will also need to be disconnected in the same way in order to allow it to be flexed outward to access the engine mount bolt. The mount does not use the adjuster on the left side but it is in the same area of the frame.
11. Remove the engine mount bolt. The small plastic piece in the frame on this side does not to be removed.
12. Remove the pre-installed slider from the bracket and install the bracket to the engine mount point.
The supplied spacer needs to be placed into the opening of the frame where the factory bolt is removed with the smaller diameter section facing outward and beneath the bracket. Then, thread the bolt in by hand and position the bracket in the same way as seen in figure 14, and tighten to the factory torque specification.
All of the fairing and trim pieces can now be installed. Look closely at each piece and you'll see any tabs or clips that need to be engaged to connect properly.
Only install enough pins or screws in each piece to make sure everything comes back together correctly,
13. The connection as seen in figure 9 can now be made. You can look at the two pieces apart to get an idea of how they mate with one another.
14. Attach the fairings on each side.
15. The trim piece in step 5 can be put back into place. This piece is probably the hardest trim piece to get back correctly in place. It has some tabs on the forward edge that need to be locked into place, plus the two Phillips head screws at the top edge.
16. The trim piece in step 4 can be put back into place. If you failed to note the difference of two of the pins upon removal, now is a good time to sort through them and figure it out, otherwise, you're in for a little frustration. Two of the pins are shiny, unlike the pins with a rough finish to them. Those pins go into the holes at the back, upper edge of the piece.
It's easier to start the two pins at the back and the three at the front. Get all of those in before committing to pushing the pin in.
17. Each of the long trim pieces from step 3 can be installed. The front tip needs to go in first because it has a tab that needs to lock into place. Look at the trim piece and the fairing and you'll understand how they connect.
Push both of the pins back into their grommets. The very back tip of the trim piece has a tab that needs to lock into place. Give some moderate thumb pressure at the back tip, just above the passenger foot peg bolt, and you should feel it click into place. If it does not, the back pin of the trim piece will tend to back out of the grommet slightly.
18. The trim piece from step 2 can be installed again on each side.
And finally.....
19. Verify that all of the fairing and trim pieces are locked into place and that the frame sliders are not contacting the fairings in any way, then put any remaining screws and push pins back in place.
Having had contact of the model in these instructions for several months has allowed us to write these instructions as closely as possible to make the installation as easy and accurate as possible but we welcome recommendations to edit possible mistakes.
Please contact us with questions.
Fork Sliders
Note: This set is installed with the front axle in its normal operating position.
1. Match the long screw with the long slider and the short screw with the short slider. Each screw needs a washer on it.
2. Apply medium strength threadlocker compound (available here) to the long mounting screw.
3. Install the long axle slider onto the shaft and lightly tighten with a 5mm hex wrench.
4. Insert slider and shaft assembly into the axle from the side of the axle that will allow the slider base to recess into the axle.
5. Apply medium threadlocker compound to the short screw and insert through the short slider. While holding the opposing slider/shaft firmly in place by hand, insert the slider/screw into the axle and carefully start the screw into the shaft. It may take some careful positioning of the shaft to get the threads started into the shaft.
6. Once the screw has been started and confirmed that proper thread engagement was made, lightly torque the screw.
7. Final tighten the opposing screw with light torque. Important: Do not over tighten the left or right side screw.
For technical assistance, please contact us
This is a copywritten document and shall not be used or copied by anyone other than the customer/mechanic installing the part.